Another Day, Another Pepper

I've been in Arizona and New Mexico the last seven days, deliberately without a schedule, plan, sense of direction. It's the kind of feeling one needs after constant planning, yelling at people, being the know-it-all boss intent on finding perfection, or at least continuity, consistency. So far, in a mere seven days, in desert, in …

So Many Dishes, So Little Time

Sometimes I think my menu isn't big enough. There are hundreds, thousands of recipes I'd like to try but I've inadvertently developed a menu that people like. There are a handful of plates people would be sad to see go, though you shouldn't get too comfortable. It started years ago with the steak and mahi …

chipotle-cinnamon braised pork shoulder

I've been working on this recipe for a while now and it gets more delicious every time. The result is fork-tender shredded pork that is great in soups (see posole), excellent in tacos, empanadillas, whatever you want. The less I talk about it, the better. Here's the version I made tonight at Mark's house. The …

Posole v NW

Some friends and I ate lunch at the food carts yesterday on Skidmore and Mississippi in NE Portland, and e. got posole. It was cold and rainy, with the sun peaking out every half hour, so a bowl of hot porky posole sounded perfect. But it was a disappointing posole. All heat, no salt, no …

Notes of a Papaya Thief

Welcome After many years of debate, travel, lost and found-ness, thousands of dollars spent in restaurants across the world, stints at scores of restaurants from busboy to server, prep to line cook, and finally co-owner and chef of a small restaurant in Puerto Rico, I’ve decided to try to write about it all. But where …